Great Day Again ... but oh Tigggy ...

I was about to write my next blog about a great day  hiking in the Daks (Adirondacks) and as in making my way to the computer, I witnessed a most precious moment .... my cat Tiggy (Tigger) who was so used to snuggling with Leo, his brother who passed away this year, has been gently inching towards his sister Lucy, who is fiercely independent, and Lucy, not willing to admit she likes the attention, was remaining in her spot and allowing Tiggy to sleep at the other end of the bed, which Tiggy appreciated! Take a look at the picture...

EXPLORING THE CHIC CHOCS & BIC NATIONAL PARK

Hmmm, where can we go for a long weekend, about five days.  Well .... a backpacking traverse along a 25 km section of the International Appalachian Trail sounded like a good fit!  This is part of the infamous trail that originates from Springer Mountain, Georgia up to Mount Katahdin in Baxter State Park, Maine and has since continued on into Canada, through Quebec Province, along the huge Peninsula, south of the St. Lawrence  River that spills into the Atlantic Ocean, ending at Percy Rock.  The northern stretch of that Peninsula has been designated as the Gaspesie National Park.  This includes the Chic Chocs and the section that we did was the McGerrigle Traverse.  We packed the car the night before and headed out at 5am the next morning.  It took us nine and a half hours to reach our destination at the campsite of Mont Albert, in the hub of the Chic Chocs, which from the Micmac “Sigsôg,” meaning impenetrable wall.  The Chic Choc Range and the McGerrigle Mountains are the focal points of "Parc National de la Gaspésie". Within its 800-square-kilometre boundary are five of the highest peaks in Quebec, offering some of the best hiking trails in the province, featuring diverse fauna and flora, and majestic scenery.  The highest mountain in Quebec is in the Torngats way up on the point above Labrador, reachable only by plane.

Our campsite was close to the lodges, shuttle services and the Visitor's Center.  We were so mesmerized by the quiet stillness of our campground.  There were people around but everyone was so respectful of the surroundings, we almost thought we were the only ones there.  It was about 3 pm when we set up our tent and settled into the evening.  We pulled out the chairs and poured two glasses of wine.  The potatoes were wrapped in foil with onions and lemon juice and cooking on the barbecue, while the salmon was getting its rub.  We breathed in the atmostphere with all its enchanting aromas and felt alive with a wonderful contentment.  After a satisfying meal, we cleaned up and prepared our gear for the traverse .... hmm decisions, decisions, packing light while maintaining warm clothing.  Aaah, bed was a welcome sight.  It was easy to wake up at 6am with the sun poking through the trees and the birds singing.  We packed up the car, ate breakfast and headed for the shuttle bus that would take us to our starting point of our traverse. 

The bus left at 8am and drove about an hour along a dirt road through the park.  We made a stop at the Jacques Cartier campground where we visited a small museum of the area.  This allowed us to be better acquainted with the habits of the caribou and their growing extinction.  A small number still survive this far south, making the park's efforts to keep them here so important, not only for tourists' enjoyment but the survival of the herd.  Over the years, these caribou developed their own characteristics such as thinner antlers.  The day was cloudy but a comfortable temperature as we made our way over the rocky path, which over time tired the feet as the rocks were loose and plentiful.  Jacques Cartier's summit was barren, all rock and in the distance we saw four caribou grazing.  They would lick the lichen from the rocks.  We took a break to have lunch and look through the Ranger's telescope for a closeup view of the caribou.  About a half hour later and a stop at the only other building on the summit, an outhouse off by itself mounted on a deck with steps, we rock hopped on the descent towards our first hut, Tetras.  It was a rustic hut nestled in the col of the mountains among the trees and near Lake Samuel de Cote.  It was at this lake that I met up with a friendly caribou.  Among bringing our food and cooking items, we also needed to pump water.  So off I went down to the lake, a quiet and still late afternoon, a cloudy sky and a pleasant breeze.  The path down to the water was tricky, filled with holes and slippery muddy grass, roots and rocks.  Not an easy escape to the hut with arms full of water containers, hose and pump.  Nevertheless, it was beautiful out and I wanted to see the lake.  As I pumped the water, I heard someone saying there was a caribou across the lake.  I looked up and there it was.  A full grown buck with long horns, an older male with a commanding presence.  I could hear the people near the hut commenting how it was looking over at us, more specifically me... and why not, caribou have poor eye sight and in my black long pants, black shirt, hunched over pumping water ... I looked more like a prospective mate.  As he watched me, he decided to make his way over around the lake, which was not big.  I suddenly went into quicker pumping action.  Meanwhile, everytime I pumped, the air through the tube made a squeeking sound like "eeeek, eeeek, eeeek" ... probably secretly calling the caribou over!  Well that "eeek" quickly became eek eek eek eek eek and I could hear his hooves thumping closer.  I sprang into action up that tricky slope and shortly after arriving at the hut, the caribou poked his head through where I came up and looked straight at me .... yikes, a little too friendly for me.  Everybody on the deck of the hut grabbed their cameras and watched as the caribou, dissappointedly lowered his head and moved away.  The other hikers in our cabin were great company.  I got to exercise my French and they got to exercise their English.  We all got along well and exchanged emails to send pictures. 

The next morning, we slept in until 7am, as we only had 6.8 km to go to our next hut, Roselin.  This section would bring us across the Xalabu Mountain, down a ridge with Lake Caplan on one side and on the other Lake des Americains.  Although it wasn't that far,  it was technical maneouvring over the boulders, hopping from rock to rock; however, as we got further down, the trail softened and we were on pine needles mixed with roots and fewer rocks.  We came to a shelter for eating only, on the side of the lake.  We took more pictures and then finished for the day after 0.7 km to our hut, Roselin.  This hut was more modern, octagon shape with lots of windows, beautiful constructed.  It accommodated 8 people.  The bunks were stationed like separate quarters which allowed for some privacy.  There were lots of hooks.  Through the night Cathy heard a mouse and sure enough the little critter was eating through the garbage.  We then realized the purpose of certain hooks which we then hung our food bags on.  There were only four of us in that hut for the night.  The next morning we were making our descent to the car to head out to our next campsite at the Bic National Park, so we rose early, shortly after 5am which was easy to wake up as these huts had no curtains so lots of light would shine through and by 7:30 am we left.  In two and a half hours, over 8.4 km, we made it to the car.  We pulled out the chairs, grabbed two cold beers and sat and toasted our accomplishment.  It was a wonderful traverse and one we would like to explore further in the future.  We showered and repacked the car and headed towards our next destination.  Bic Park was situated on the south shores of the mouth of the St. Lawrence River, where the ocean and river meet, where the salt water comes in tides and pulls out again.  Whales, seals, assorted birds could be seen around here.  After setting up camp, we toured around and stopped at viewing areas.  One in particular was fascinating.  Hundreds of seals would come into shore and lay on the  rocks while the tide was out.  They would bathe in the sun for hours.  This made viewing very easy and a photographer's dream.  We made the most of our day there and the next day did a small hike along the coast, about 1 km and soaked in the beauty of the shoreline, the ocean, the moist foggy air and finally we had to leave.  About 9:30 am, we started for home.  Staying at Bic the night before, shaved off about two hours of travel.  The journey was great and with all the pictures we took, it was easy to return again in vivid recollection.

BAXTER & ACADIA HIKING & CYCLING ADVENTURE in Maine of July 2012

A WEEK HIKING IN MAINE, July 14-22, 2012

It was a long-awaited hiking extravaganza with a little bit of kayaking and cycling to the mix.  The weather couldn’t have been better, with heat, breeze, sun and yes a little bit of humidity so as not to get homesick.  Off we went, early Saturday morning from Ted’s house shortly past 6:30 am.  Gord, Ted and I in one vehicle and Ted’s brother Joe with Vera and Kyla.  Our first site was fixed on Baxter State Park, where we would set up camp in the park, which was kept very rustic, outhouses and treated water.  As this was still car camping, I was afforded the luxury of an air mattress.  We made our way with a couple of stops to empty and replenish and finally at Millinocket, we sought out the grocery store for Joe’s beer and other necessities.  It would be Joe, Vera and Kyla’s first rustic camping, but somehow they managed very well with all the equipment they had to provide for a full course meal and practically a condo with their huge dome tent for 10 oops 3 people!!  Our little tents fitted neatly around their tent, making ours look like changing quarters or portable salons next to their “Taj Mahal” as christened by Vera.

My mission was to accompany Ted on a trek to Hamlin Peak in his endeavour to bag the 111s Highest  Northeast Peaks of the USA.  I excitedly made our plan to hike up the Abol Trail to the Thoreau Spring Cut Off, sidestepping Baxter peak towards Hamlin, approximately a 10.8-mile return trip originally.  However, that night when the ranger did her rounds checking in with the campers, she discouraged us from taking inexperienced hikers up the Abol Trail due to the “scree” along a part of the trail that would hinder and exhaust even the experienced hikers.  So, we decided to go up the Hunt Trail and return the same way, making a total mileage of 12.4 miles that day.  I had earlier explained to Ted that it would be anywhere between a 10 and 12 hour day but that we would have the daylight on our side and with an early start, we could potentially finish early.  Of course, when hiking with the great outdoors, one must always place Mother Nature first and abide by her direction.  In this case, thunder and lightning was a potential threat that we had to yield to.  The ranger warned us and so we set ahead with the knowledge we were given and started our hike shortly past 6:30 am the next morning.  We had a tremendous day full of surprises, wonder, camaraderie, fear and exhaustion.  However, we were prepared with GPS,map and walkie-talkie and enough snacks that we were able to split up at a junction that would enable Vera and Kyla to reach Baxter Peak and allow Ted and I to summit Hamlin and return back to camp, after a few lightning and thunder scares on the way down, making it back to camp by about 7pm.  Vera and Kyla made it into camp an hour earlier.  We kept in touch by walkie talkie, which assured both parties that we were on our way and safe.  It was an awesome hike.  We ate supper and celebrated our accomplishment.  The next day, Ted and I would head out to North Brother for our second peak in that area for the 111s.  Ted and I were on the trail for almost a mile when he had to admit that he would not make it out in a timely manner due to an injury he sustained on the hike the day before.  Unfortunately, he did not take his Advil to curb his aches and we had to turn back.  Once back at camp, he took his Advil and then realized he could  have managed it if he had  taken the pain killers prior.  However, this time afforded all of us to ready ourselves and make our way down to Bar Harbour for the next chapter of our trek, that is … hiking in Acadia National Park.

Acadia was beautiful against coastal shores of the Atlantic with the fishing boats and lobster  traps dotting the coves.  The weather continued to brighten our day with heat and sunlight. The next four days , we would explore the different trails throughout Acadia by bicycle and hiking boots.  We stayed at Smugglers Den Campground in Southeast Harbour.  I took advantage to explore the more challenging hikes with cliffs and rungs, among the former nesting grounds of the Perrigrine Falcons.  You could see the odd one soaring through.  These hikes were short, reaching the summits soon enough to afford you another hike elsewhere within the same day.  Another day we kayaked in Bar Harbour and another day I spent cycling along the carriage roads through the park with overhanging trees and also along the highways that provided a cycling path alongside.  There was also the free shuttle bus that carried six bicycles that was an excellent service to get us to our cycling destination and back to our camp. 

Finally, the last Saturday came and off we went to our next destination, Rockland, for our Lobster Ride’n Roll fundraiser cycling event.  There some of us cycled for 50 miles along the coast of Maine through the trees overhanging the country roads to a lighthouse at our halfway mark.  The route would then turn around and bring us back into Rockland to the Oceanview High School, where we would eat our lobster roll and relish in our cycling achievement.  It was a great week.

From Rockland, we drove to Rumford to stay overnight at the Blue Iris Motor Inn.  We enjoyed its back connecting deck with each unit which allowed us to pull the tables and chairs together for a final toast to a fulfilling week of adventure.  Of course, it also had a pool which three of us took advantage of.  The weather remained beautiful the next day as we made our way home to Cornwall.  One stop I would make again would be at Ile Perault’s restaurant (near Montreal) of “Smoke Meat Pete”.  It had the best smoke meat sandwiches ever which I came to learn late in life.  Oh well, Aunt Joanne and Uncle Bill, you’ll have to return so that we can take you there!

Here are some photos of our week.

WEEKEND AT JOHN'S BROOK LODGE

The weekend of June 22nd, we left early Friday morning for some hiking in the Great Range of the Adirondacks, New York.  Here's a weekend of hiking in the Adirondacks which brought us a medley of sun, rain, thunder and lightning.  We hiked in 3.5 miles from the Garden Parking Lot in Keene, New York, to John's Brook Lodge.  We wanted to take the South Trail but as we made our way down the steep bank over to the brook, there was so much blow down that we had to turn back and take the popular John's Brook Trail to the lodge.  We settled in at the lodge for the evening with a good supper, conversation and sleep in a bunk room of two double bunks.  The next day, Saturday, we started fresh about 7:40 am on the trail to Lower Wolf Jaw, but as we made our way to Upper Wolf Jaw, we could see the storm clouds circling on either side of the range and would make a decision atop Upper Wolf Jaw whether to continue on or not.  Several systems were moving through the mountains bringing rain, thunder and lightning.  I didn't see the lightning until we reached the last mountain, that is Gothics, which had open slabs of rock with a cable running down it, which looks like a hose.  The very last place you want to be in a thunder storm.  As I grabbed the cable, I felt like a rock climber belaying down from a cliff in speed form, anxious to reach shelter in the short artic pine before the next clap of thunder and shot of lightning.  There was more rain than lightning but shelter was more important.  We covered about 11 miles in that loop for the day, making it back to the lodge by 3:50 pm, just in time for the sun to come out in full beauty to dry things off.  Mother Nature is never boring, challenging our senses and our skills.  The new slides created from last year's Hurricane Irene were amazing.  The last slide coming down Orebed Trail off Gothics was the most spectacular.  As we descended the slide with the rain running down the slab of rock, our boots amazingly stayed gripped as we inched our way down to reach the newly constructed wooden stairs to take us lower to the existing trail below.  The real challenge was getting from the bare rock to the steps as slick and slippery mud was between and one slip on this would send us on a sliding into pointy branches and debris at the bottom of the slide about a half to full mile below.  We carefully watched our footing and made our way, key was being alert and careful placement of your feet.  It was a great day with half and half of sun and  rain.  We finished our weekend on Sunday with the hike over Big Slide, down the Brothers to the parking lot.  It was a beautiful hot sunny day and as we  made our way home we made several shopping stops to top up our hiking gear and take advantage of sales in Lake Placid.  Of course, the WalMart stop provided us with savings in groceries and supper that night with burgers topped with Vermont sharp cheddar, hmmm, what a great way to end the day ... and of course, more pictures .... take a look!